At a time when many are mourning the demise of Indian craftsmanship,
well-known designer Anupama Dayal is focussing on employment for master
weavers and promoting intensely handcrafted garments that have
international appeal.
"Our motto is to honour master skills,
thereby producing a product that is unique and intensely handcrafted but
in keeping with international quality standards," Dayal, who launched
her brand Anupamaa in 2004, told IANS.
"Another important goal of
our brand is 'employment generation' and our work is based on
sustainable growth. We also work directly with craftspeople and several
NGOs to meet these goals," she added.
Known for working closely
with craftspeople from different areas of India, the 30 something
designer feels with such a vast heritage, sometimes it becomes difficult
to explore every single fabric.
"It will be wrong to say that
designers today are not giving due recognition to handmade textiles and
fabrics. There are many designers who work with Indian textiles. There
is such a vast textile heritage, there is always a scope for upcoming
designers to work on more," she said.
In fact, her recent
collection titled Surat and Spice, which she showcased at the ongoing
Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week (WIFW), has been inspired by chintz
textiles.
Her forte is handprinted textiles. She said:
"Handprinted textiles have always been a wondrous source of inspiration
to me like an obsessive collector. I have squirreled away in my mind
bits and pieces of palampores, coromandels and machilapatnams, snapshots
from museums, pictures from books, and work created in my own workshops
by master craftsmen," she said.
"From the 16th to the 18th
century, India was the biggest exporter of textiles the world has ever
known. The magnetic appeal of Indian fabrics caused empires, colonies
and wars. My new collection is built around this powerfully
transformative moment in textile history. Surat, the legendary port town
in western India, was the hub of textile action during this period,"
she added.
An interesting range, Surat and Spice boasted of
tunics, long dresses and a lot of fluid draping in hues of red,
cinnamon, indigo, mehndi, haldi, baingani and paprika.
"Fluid
draping has been key this season. A key skill, this can be used to
instantly transform a garment and reinvent a look. Also the trims,
prints and decorative elements have been strategically placed.
"The
drapes can be worked with to achieve required levels of chicness,
functionality, modesty and temperature control," said Dayal.
Dayal said every woman is a celebrity in her own right.
"All
the models who grace my show and all the women who attend my show are
celebrities in my eyes. Every girl is blessed with unique beauty and
clothes are creative tools to reinvent their personality. For me, every
single woman present in the MSA (Main Show Area) is a showstopper,"
Dayal told IANS.

A designer reinvents Indian textile heritage, craftsmanship



